The young man knows his adjectives and the teacher has success…

Give it time and have patience…

Today, during an impromptu study of adjectives, I had each of the six students come up with three positive adjectives describing someone they knew, without repeating any.  The next-to-last student at the table described her best friend with these three adjectives:

1.  She’s beautiful

2.  She’s stylish

3.  She’s slender

The last student, a 20-something young man with a continual smile on his face and twinkle in his eye, had only one response when I asked him for his three adjectives, and it was:

“I want that girl’s phone number.”

And we’ve connected… the teacher and the students.
This is real learning.  We’re getting to know each other well enough that humor is beginning to filter into the lessons….
Today was a much better day.

English lessons for them, Arabic lessons for me.

I have no idea what impact I had this morning during my first day teaching English, but I was given an exquisitely drawn rendering of my name in Arabic by the one student who told me without words that she was not going to talk.  Instead, she carefully drew a very stylized version of my name in Arabic.  Every once in a while, I’d notice her looking up from her drawing, with a
grin or a chuckle at something I had said, so responding or not, I think she understood more than she wanted to admit, and was simply shy about speaking.

There were 20 students at the school, mainly female (three male students trickled in during the course of the class, which surprised me, but I was told that men were allowed to attend the English lessons).  Although they all had different skill levels, the one thing they had in common was their desire to learn.  I was with another volunteer from the house, Kelsey, who made it a bit easier, even if that was simply to have someone to share glances of “what do we do now?”  We decided to break into two groups of ten, which made conversing a bit easier.  Because we didn’t know what their English abilities would be, we didn’t bring any materials with us, so we were winging it all the way.  I did, however, bring some photos I had of my family and life, as I thought they would make for a good conversation starter. They all seemed to be able to understand most of what I said and could string together simple sentences.

Shortly after passing the photos around, I noticed that the woman seated next to me had lowered her head onto the table.  I thought that perhaps she wasn’t feeling well, but then I realized that she was crying.  She explained to me that her son lived in California and she missed him terribly. Seeing the photos of me with my children made her sad.  Of course, I felt terrible, and any momentum I had made with my now smaller group of students was quickly lost.

One of the other women glanced at me and, without saying a word, giving me permission to go on, as she knew her friend would be fine. No one else in the group reacted to the crying. Maybe this happens a lot?  I couldn’t help but remember something Mohamed had told us the previous day: never take the value of our passports for granted.  In Morocco, you must obtain a visa to leave the country, which requires an application several months in advance, along with a $160 fee.  He said that you may or may not get the visa, and you don’t know until you are notified by mail.  Of course, the $160 is lost either way (minimum wage is $250 a month, so a $160 fee is considered a lot of money).  This poor woman, working so hard on her English so she will be able to speak English for “when I’m in America,” may not even be able to get a visa, regardless of her language abilities.

I had just gotten started again with my impromptu teaching when the same woman who indicated to me that it was Ok to continue, grabbed my arm and pulled me closer to her, and told me she had recently had an operation.  It took a few tries of her telling me, but I was finally able to put it together that she had breast cancer, had recently had a mastectomy, and had just finished radiation.  She may have found a friend, but I’m not sure sitting next to me is such a good idea, as I think she was trying to turn a classroom situation into “private lessons.”

I pulled out just about everything I had, as my group patiently waited to see what I had for them next.  No one, except for my new best friend, wanted to take any initiative in the talking, short of the guy in my class who was very interested in learning more about Las Vegas.  I’ve only been there once, but I did my best to stretch out what little I had.  Oh,  and he wondered…”Did I eat at McDonald’s a lot?  I think he was disappointed when I told him no, I didn’t eat at McDonald’s.

This was not easy today, and if I didn’t have something to tell them, they would quickly fall into spirited conversations among themselves… of course, all in Arabic.  I experienced several of those awkward moments of watching myself as I tried to work my way back into the attention of everyone who was surrounding me at the table.  Slowly, work myself back into visibility with anything I could pull up… “What did you do yesterday?  Wasn’t it hot?”   Sorry, folks, but short of asking you your favorite color, that’s all I’ve got.  I know it will get better.

Kelsey had a similar experience with her group, so once back at the house, we started poring through the stacks of materials we found in a supply closet and were relieved to at least have something to work with tomorrow.  This is a free language school for students and is staffed solely by volunteers.  I always wonder how much impact I’m really making during volunteer situations like this, but when Mohammad told us that if we weren’t there, they wouldn’t have had class, it made me realize that we absolutely were making a difference, regardless of how inept I felt today.

Teachers: I’ve always had the utmost respect for what you do, but that respect doubled today.
The rest of the group volunteered at the children’s orphanage or the children’s hospital.   After hearing their stories, I am confident that I made the right choice in my job placement.  Most of the children at the orphanage were “thrown away” after birth by single mothers to avoid jail time, as giving birth out of wedlock is punishable by law.  One of the other volunteers told me that most of them were severely deformed and needed complete care.  She also told me that the place was immaculate and that the children were very well cared for.

I remember the long, quiet rides back to the house after volunteering at my placement in Perú, and today was no different.  No doubt, first and foremost on all of our minds was how fortunate we were that we were born in the United States.  It’s easy to forget that.

We had an afternoon of sightseeing, with time inside the Medina (the old walled town), an ancient fort, and our first glimpse of the ocean.  The colors were amazing.

My name is in there somewhere…

One last thing… in the short amount of time I’ve been here, I’ve already become accustomed to the bells, that sound more like fog horns, that signal prayer time…  four times a day..

Arabic is hard…

This is what I learned today… (Or at least what stood out).  Arabic is a challenging language, but I had kind of figured that out before I came, so I’m not going to count that as one.

1. TRUE Argon oil (very popular here) comes from the Argon tree, which is only grown in one city in the world… Agadir, Morocco, which also happens to be the hometown of our house manager.  Goats climb the argon trees and eat the hard shell off of the nut, which then falls to the ground and is harvested.  I’m hopeful to be able to witness this… trees filled with goats.  Mohammad said it looks a lot like a tree full of birds, only of course they are goats, not birds.  Seems like something worthwhile to seek out.

2.  Bread is considered sacred (it is a very bread-centered diet here… again, died and gone to heaven on the food here…) so all bread scraps must be put in a separate container when we clean up our plates after mealtime.  The leftover bread is then fed to animals.  All other trash is thrown out.  No recycling (or at least not here…)

3.  If you are Moroccan and want to get a hotel room with someone of the opposite sex, you must show proof of marriage.  It is illegal for Moroccans to share a hotel room unless married.  This does not apply to other nationalities.

This is a fascinating country, and our in-country manager, Mohamed, is extremely personable and very knowledgeable.  He served in the Peace Corps, has a law degree, is fluent in several languages, and has an incredible sense of humor.

She’s not in Kansas anymore…

You know you are far from home when you have to go through two other translations before you finally hear English. Still, you’re discouraged that you can’t understand a word of your native tongue, which is hidden behind a very thick Arabic accent with a significant French influence.  And then there’s the signage, as beautiful as it is curious.

The journey to Rabat was long… not because it was all that far (a “short” two hour flight from
Paris), but because the most significant part of the flight, Boston to Paris, felt more like a Kansas City to Albany run given the size of the plane…knee to knee, elbow to elbow, bad food and generous pours on cheap wine, all adding up to a not so great experience, short of a lovely French woman sitting next to me (seriously, are we ever so intimate with strangers but on a plane?) who was interested in what I was knitting and pulled out her phone to share photos of her recent knitting projects.  Sometimes words aren’t necessary.  I love that.

The house where I’m staying is small but very charming and efficient.  It’s also immaculate, and I would feel totally comfortable eating off any part of the floor, where, by the way, shoes are not allowed.  Barefoot all the way.  I will be sharing my small room with two bunk beds with another girl, whom I haven’t yet met, as she is away this weekend.  I’ve taken cues from her neatly stacked belongings and have tried to organize my things with that in mind. I’ve copied her and am using the top bunk to lay out my clothes, as there isn’t another spot to put them. I couldn’t help but think back to my college dorm days, waiting to meet my roommate, whom I didn’t know and whose bed was mere feet away from mine.

Tomorrow, the four volunteers who arrived today and I will have our orientation, when I will learn more about what I will be doing during my time here. Mohamed, our house manager, said I may be the only one from the house placed at the women’s center, as it sounds like everyone else will be working at the orphanage.  The unknowing, going to bed with new sounds, new smells, and new sensations, reminds me of why I love this so much, which surprises my orderly, Virgo side.  It takes me back to so many first nights in new countries when I teetered between waking up in the middle of the night with feelings of what the hell am I doing?, to not being able to fall asleep because I was so anxious for it to be morning when I’d be able to get a closer look at my new temporary home and learn more about where I’d be volunteering.

There were only four of us in the house tonight as the rest of the group was traveling for the weekend. We had a lovely light supper of lamb, rice, fruit salad, roasted fennel, Moroccan soup, homemade bread, dates, pomegranates, and a combination of sautéed vegetables.  Not only was it a beautiful spread, but it was also delicious.
For now, I’m tucked in my lower bunk, ready to sleep off some of this jet lag.  I’m soaking in the smells and sounds of this new city, new country, new continent, and it’s feeling pretty fantastic.  I can smell a hint of jasmine that is coming through the billowing curtains of my open deck door. Perfection.

I need to add a disclaimer regarding editing. I’m not used to my new iPad combined with my blog site that’s totally gone French on me ( I definitely need to learn how to say “delete” in French and quit pushing that button.) This was quite a challenge for me to complete this tiny task of typing tonight. I’m hoping I can blame most of it on jet lag, but that may be overly hopeful. So ignore the obvious, including the creative indents that insist on being present regardless of what I do.

Salaam from Rabat!

Laurie Sunderland, reading from right
to left.