
A maze of unnecessary gates
I sat at the crowded gate waiting to board, feeling lucky to have a seat. The gate area was small, with folding chairs lined up in rows facing a large open space, a check-in desk behind it, and a series of retractable gate barriers the flight attendant kept moving to allow access. Everyone around me spoke Polish. I leaned in to the conversation next to me and tried to catch something familiar, while regretting that I hadn’t even learned how to say “hello” in this difficult language. I tried to ignore my doubts. Poland? Why Poland? I have no idea. But teaching children English was what hooked me.
At my feet were my carry-on suitcase and a smaller bag, heavy with my computer, a jacket, a book, an empty notebook and pens, and 20 pages of ideas for teaching English to Polish students while keeping it interesting. I had tried to get through the pages multiple times, but was more bored than inspired. I also had no idea what ages I’d be teaching, and many of the ideas were age-specific.
This would be my most difficult journey in 19 months. A long journey to a place I had never been for 3 weeks, 2 of them teaching. I wouldn’t have a family member or friend at the other end of the journey to pick me up from the airport, reassure me that I was doing the right thing, listen to me, and comfort me as needed. I felt fragile, tired, and haunted by the stack of papers that were supposed to help me accomplish the task ahead, that I was choosing not to read. And I felt sad. Regardless of the situation, grief always pushes her way to the shotgun position with me, especially when I’m feeling weak. Wanda (the personification of my grief) was not going to be left out. She was coming to Poland.
I would be volunteering with 2 other women, who I had never met, but who knew each other and the assignment. It would be their 3rd time volunteering in Poland. I would be paired with another woman, while the third would be teaching adults in another town.
After navigating the complicated maze of retractable queue barriers, I walked down the jetway and boarded the plane. I was overcome with memories of doing the same thing multiple times before, starting with Emery in Perú.

My first impressions of Warsaw were that it was beautiful and charming, and that the old town area where I was staying was clean and felt very safe. Unlike most other countries I’ve been in, very few people spoke English. When I stopped at an outdoor cafe for an early dinner, I mentioned that it looked like I was the first one there, but didn’t want to seem too excited. I smiled, which usually works, right? I was met with an expressionless face. She didn’t understand what I said or respond to my smile. She handed me a menu and pointed to a table. I had been in the country only a few hours, but I was already struck by how serious the Polish people were.
Words weren’t familiar. Signage wasn’t familiar. The food wasn’t familiar, and neither were the menus I was ordering from, unless they had an English version. The only thing that felt familiar was my heart, and, as with so much of the past 19 months, we were once traveling solo again.
The two women behind the front desk at my small hotel spoke enough English that, when I mentioned Chopin and a possible concert, one of them handed me a brochure. A small concert venue was within walking distance, and I immediately went online and booked a ticket for the next day. The concert, or recital, as it was called, was in a small, high-ceilinged room with about 100 chairs, half of them filled. I took in the moment, letting it sink in. I was in Warsaw, in an elegantly furnished room, waiting to hear a pianist play Chopin. I was in heaven.


I remember my Dad playing Chopin on the stereo in our living room in the mornings as we got ready for school, and although I didn’t know the names of the pieces, I knew my favorites. Several years later, I snuck the same album in between Jackson Browne and Carol King and took it to college. My roommate didn’t understand why I wanted to listen to Chopin in between what everyone else was listening to, but I think she secretly liked it, or at least she didn’t tell me to turn it off. And now, 50-some years later, there I was, in the 2nd row, listening to a pianist who brought the phrase “tickling the ivories” to life for me, while he played my favorite, Nocturne Op. 9 No. 2. I was smiling ear to ear, and sobbing at the same time. His performance of pieces I had heard many times before uncovered the living pulse behind the notes, cracking open my vulnerable heart and soul. I sat in the room, half-filled with people, yet alone, with my heart, my emotions, my memories, my Emery. So moved, I returned the following afternoon. I thanked the women at the front desk. They nodded, but without smiles.
The next day, a different pianist played with much more aggression, bowing after every piece, unlike the first pianist, who seemed to be inside the music he was creating and didn’t break that spell until after his last piece. I knew those two hours listening to Chopin in the salon would be highlights of my trip that had barely begun. I was right.
The following day, I explored Warsaw with a guide I hired. Poland’s sad, tumultuous history was palpable in the walls of the many buildings we entered that were still standing after being bombed. I felt the sadness in the people, and my guide, Jola, was no exception. We connected easily, and she spoke English beautifully, but we shared experiences without humor. I found this with most people I met in Poland. After spending the day seeing Warsaw through her eyes, she asked me if I wanted to go to a nearby mall. I wasn’t necessarily interested in going to a mall, but she reassured me that this one was different. It had once been a power plant, and during WWII, workers at the plant were active in resistance activities against the occupying Nazi forces. The factory management helped the Poles living under Nazi rule, offering them work or sheltering them from roundups. It was an interesting space, still holding the industrial feel of the power plant in its walls and furnishings. We stopped at a coffee shop for tea and paczki (POONCH-key), traditional Polish donuts, which were very good, and connected over our shared experiences as moms. She told me she had one son, who was also a tour guide, and I told her I had two sons and a daughter, intentionally leaving out that one was no longer living. It felt easier.
My last day in Warsaw, while I wandered through Old Town alone, I heard someone call my name, which surprised me in a city of 1.8 million people. It was Jola. I greeted her with “Dzień Dobry,” the words for good morning she taught me the day before. They ended up being the only 2 words I could speak with confidence after my 3 weeks in Poland. “Dzień” is pronounced like “gin,” which explains why I struggled so much with Polish signage. We exchanged a few words while her small group of tourists waited patiently, then said our goodbyes. I regretted not getting a photo of us together. Later that day, as I walked back from the Chopin concert, I saw her again and got the photo. We exchanged WhatsApp information so I could send her the photo. We said our goodbyes, and I left with the strange feeling that we’d see each other again.

The sign and symbol of Warsaw is a mermaid… always with a sword and shield to protect.

Jola and me in Old Town Warsaw
After 3 wonderful days of exploring, I left my hotel in Warsaw and met up with the two women I’d be volunteering with, along with our in-country manager, Olga, a Ukrainian woman who happened to be the same age as Emery, who had fled her country at the onset of the war.
My time in Poland was a 3-week series of moments. I suppose most of life is a series of moments, some standing out, others mundane, all connected by the breath of varied emotions. My Poland moments felt different. Maybe it was the grief and my slowed-down pace in life, or maybe it was my first journey of this nature since Emery died, but it felt distinct and with a depth of intention that felt new.
Next up: the children, the school, the manor, Reymontowka, where I stayed, and my random and surprising invitation to the manor’s employee party.













